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Mozart & the Art of Rice & Sartù! |
The Rice Series No. 2 (Sartù) 1. Rice Sartù The Sultan's Way (1790) 2. Rice Sartù The Neapolitan Way (1837) |
A series of famous rice recipes which were already very popular, when Mozart & his father Leopold visited Italy for the first time in 1770, and which soon became international dishes! |
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DIFFICULTY: The real Rice Sartù must be always rich! |
1. RICE SARTÙ THE SULTAN'S WAY (1773) For this kind of recipe you need a particular type of rice called Roma. The Sartù (or Sortù probably derived from the French term Surtout) is a dish that receives a peculiar shape thanks to a mould or to the ability of the cook in food sculpting. INGREDIENTS: Serving 8... Meat Stock (ca. 2 l.; use meat of your choice and then at least, 100gr. onions, 160gr. butter, 2dl. white wine, 2 small finely minced clove of garlic, salt and crushed pepper) Rice (675gr.; type Roma or similar to be used for Timballi) Beef Bone Marrow (90gr.; or some other butter instead) Salt Pepper (crushed) Nutmeg Egg yolks (10; fresh) Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese (grated; 120gr.+120gr. / or Grana Padano Cheese) Eggs (5/6; white+yolk fresh and sufficiently beaten) Butter (if you use the mould) For the Ragout: Prepare a Ragout according to your taste, with White or Red Stock, by using a combination of the following ingredients: some meat of chicken or pork or lamb or similar, sweetbreads, chicken combs, chicken livers, chicken kidneys (instead of extra-rare rooster testicles, used in the original recipes of the 18th century), chicken unborn eggs (still a typical speciality in some Italian region), tails of shrimps, truffles, St. George mushrooms or Portobello mushrooms, peas, small tender artichokes, spikes of asparagi, small tender onions, small tender carrots, pitted olives, etc. (when necessary, all finely chopped in cubes or slices and cooked in butter with a bit of flour and: meat stock White with white meats & white wine or Red with red meats & red wine; you can complete the White sauce with 3 egg yolks & some milk cream; you can complete the Red sauce with some very thick meat gravy or stock or with some tomatoes sauce) For the Sauce of Truffles: Truffles (5 or 6; minced; a superior black type) Ham (from a block of ham 100gr. julienne) Champagne or Alsatian white wine (1/2 glass) Olive Oil (a bit) Shallots (cut into thin rings) Garlic (1 clove finely minced) Cloves (2 finely minced) 1 small red onion (peeled, cut into thin rings) 1 clove garlic (peeled and chopped into slithers) 1 small carrot (cut into round slices) rosemary light veal stock (Restoran) METHOD: 1. Prepare the meat stock and when it is ready, prepare a pan where to cook the Rice (Risotto). 2. Let the Rice cook in the Beef Bone Marrow only for ca. 5/7 min. Always stir the Rice with a wooden spoon. When the Rice is ready, add the Meat Stock. 3. Prepare the usual Risotto: when the Rice has absorbed all the Stock, add some other stock and keep stirring the Rice with a wooden spoon. 4. The Risotto will be ready after ca. 15/18 min.: do not overcook it, do not burn it. Adjust salt and pepper to taste. 5. When the Risotto is ready, it must be rather dry (not too much sauce!). While it starts cooling add 10 fresh egg yolks to it and stir with the wooden spoon. 6. Now let the Risotto completely cool down. Then add ca. 120gr. of Parmigiano Reggiano or Grana Padano Cheese and well stir the Rice with the wooden spoon. 7. Now prepare the Ragout: choose the ingredients for your Ragout by following the instructions given supra. Keep in mind that if you want to prepare: a WHITE RAGOUT you must use a white meat stock and some white wine, while you are cooking the ingredients in a pan with butter and some flour and then some milk cream to complete the white ragout; a RED RAGOUT you must use a red meat stock and some red wine, while you are cooking the ingredients in a pan with butter and some flour and then some very thick meat gravy or stock or with some tomatoes sauce. Always adjust salt and pepper to taste. 8. Now prepare the Sauce of Truffles: Put all the ingredients into a pan. While cooking, add the 1/2 glass of white wine and some light veal stock. Stir. Let it simmer for 30 min. When it's ready, strain the sauce through a sieve, in order to get a fine very smooth sauce of truffles. 9. Now build the Sartù: WITHOUT MOULD With the Risotto build a sort of pymarid/cone of cold rice, but with a flat top. Then at the centre of it create a sort of hole where to pour the Ragout, by digging the flat top. You can cover the Ragout with other Rice, if you want. Pour the beaten egg whites & yolks all over the pyramid/cone & add, over it, ca. another 120gr. of Parmigiano Reggiano/Grana Padano Cheese. When the Sartù is ready, put it into the oven, until it gets a wonderful golden colour. When its ready, serve the Sartù of Rice by pouring the smooth Sauce of Truffles at the base and onto the top. WITH MOULD If you want to use the mould, at No. 6 you must accurately pour the 120gr. of Parmigiano/Grana Cheese into the mould, when the Risotto is still warm. Grease the interior part of the mould with abundant butter, pour the warm Rice into the mould. At the centre of the Rice create some room where to pour the Ragout, then cover the Ragout with other rice. When you are done, let the Rice cool down into the Mould. When you are ready to serve the Sartù, accurately get the Sartù out of the mould, in order to get a sort of pyramid/cone with a flat top. Then pour the beaten egg whites & yolks all over the pyramid/cone & add, over it, ca. another 120gr. of Parmigiano/Grana Cheese. When the Sartù is ready, put it into the oven, until it gets a wonderful golden colour. When its ready, serve the Sartù of Rice by pouring the smooth Sauce of Truffles at the base and onto the top. |
SORTÙ DI RISO ALLA SULTANA Quando averete cotto il riso come il precedente, tiratelo indietro dal fuoco, metteteci otto, o dieci rossi d’uova crudi, mescolate bene finché é caldo. Allorché sarà freddo aggiungeteci tre pugni di parmigiano grattato, mescolate ancora. Prendete il piatto che volete servire, dirizzateci col riso il Sortù a guisa di un Pasticcio con un buon Ragù nel mezzo di vostro genio. Indorate tutto all’intorno d’uovo sbattuto, e spolverizzate di parmigiano grattato; fategli prendere un bel colore dorato ad un forno assai caldo, e servite con un poco di Culì di tartufi intorno al bordo del piatto,e sopra il Sortù. Se lo volete fare in una forma di rame, ungete questa di butirro, metteteci il riso finche è caldo, avendo attenzione di premere acciò entri in tutti gli angoli, metteteci nel mezzo il Ragù, coprite ol resto del riso, appianate sopra col coltello; fate raffreddare, indi scaldate la forma nell’acqua bollente, rivoltatela sopra il piatto che volete servire che vada giusta nel mezzo, indorate con uovo sbattuto, spolverizzate di parmigiano grattato, fate prendere un bel colore ad un forno assai caldo, e servite con un poco di Culì intorno il bordo del piatto. CULÌ DI TARTUFI Mondate, e tritate grossolanamente, cinque o sei tartufi, metteteli in una cazzarola con un pezzo di prosciutto, due scalogne, uno spicchio d'aglio, qualche pezzetto di vitella, due garofani, un mazzetto d’erbe diverse, un poco d’olio, passate sopra il fuoco, aggiungeteci mezzo bicchiere di vino di sciampagna, o altro vino bianco buono, fatelo consumare di nuovo; bagnatelo col Culì, e un poco di Restoran, o altro brodo colorito, fatelo bollire dolcemente una mezz’ora, digrassatelo, e passatelo alla stamina, o al setaccio. RAGÙ VARIO Un Ragù lo potete variare come volete e secondo il vostro gusto, cioè o con animelle, o senza, creste, granelletti, fegatini, code di gamberi, tartufi, prugnoli, picciole Chenef, uovette nonnate ec., ovvero piselli, carciofoletti, culi di carciofi, punte di sparagi, uovette composte, teste di selleri, cipollette ec., e finalmente con olive dissossate e ripiene, cedrioletti, capperi ec. Ogni Ragù lo potete fare al Bianco, come al Rosso. |
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2. RICE SARTÙ THE NEAPOLITAN WAY (1837) Even though published in 1837, this is a Neapolitan dish of extra-long tradition, which belongs even to the beginning of the 18th century. According to a few scholars, this was the original form of the Rice Sartù, as invented at the beginning of the 18th century in Naples. Serving 12... INGREDIENTS: Meat Stock (ca. 2,5 l.; use meat of your choice and then at least, 100gr. onions, 160gr. butter, 2dl. white wine, 2 small finely minced clove of garlic, salt and crushed pepper) Rice (ca. 900gr.; type Roma or similar to be used for Timballi) Salt Pepper (crushed) Nutmeg Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese (grated; ca. 310gr. / or Grana Padano Cheese / or Caciocavallo Cheese) Eggs (12; white+yolk fresh and sufficiently beaten) Butter (ca. 250gr.) Lard (if you use the mould) Bread (ca. 250gr., grated) A. RICH RAGOUT Cervellate sausages (450gr.) Chicken livers (10) Chicken breasts (2 or 3 without bones) Meatballs (450 gr., of your choice: pork, chicken, lamb, etc.) Peas Mushrooms (St. George mushrooms or Portobello mushrooms) Not to be cooked as a Ragout but to be added in a second moment to the Sartù: Mozzarella Cheese in slices (450gr.) Eggs (4; boiled) Ham (in slices) B. POOR RAGOUT Chicken livers, Chicken kidneys, peas (not too much), mushrooms in slices (St. George mushrooms or Portobello mushrooms; not too much) METHOD: 1. Boil the Rice in the Meat Stock, until the Rice has absorbed all the Stock. In any case always stir the rise with a wooden spoon: never overcook the rice, never burn the rice. Then remove the Rice from the Stock (if some left), when the Rice is cooked but not too much (al dente). 2. Put the Rice in a Bowl. Now add the 12 eggs, the 310gr. of Cheese and the 250gr. of butter. Stir all the ingredients until the Rice get well blended and smooth. Now let the Rice cool down. Adjust salt and pepper to taste. 3. Now choose the type of Ragout you want to use the RICH RAGOUT or the POOR RAGOUT. Prepare the Ragout following the instructions given for the previous recipe "Rice Sartù the Sultan's Way". 4. Warm up the Rice (but not too much), always keeping stiring it with a spoon. 5. Grease the mould with lard. Pour the grated bread in the mould onto the lard. Now you can start pouring the warm rice into the mould. Press it well. When you have poured ca. the half of the Rice and created a sort of bowl of Rice, add the Ragout of your Choice (do not use all the Ragout, but leave a few spoonfuls of Ragout for the last passage). Add the slices of Mozzarella Cheese, of Ham and of the 4 boiled Eggs. Then cover the Ragout with the remainder of the warm Rice, so that you have completely filled the mould. Pour some other grated bread on the Rice with a few pieces of Lard. 6. Now put the Rice Mould into the oven, until the Sartù gets a beautiful golden colour. 7. When the Sartù is ready, remove it from the mould as usual and put it on a large plate. With a knife remove a part of the top of the Sartù and create a hole. Then pour some remainder of your Ragout into the hole. 8. Your Sartù the Neapolitan Way is ready! |
SARTÙ DI RISO [ALLA NAPOLETANA] Prendi un rotolo e mezzo di riso, ma che sia di quello forte, lo lesserai nel brodo chiaro, ed in mancanza anche nell'acqua, sia pure per economia, perchè vale lo stesso. Quando il riso sarà cotto, ma non scotto, ci porrai un terzo, ossia once undici di parmeggiano o caciocavallo, ed un pane di butiro (purchè non l'avrai cotto nel brodo), ci farai un battuto di dodici ovi, e mescolerai tutto ben bene: indi farai reffreddare questa composizione, e poscia prenderai la casseruola proporzionata per formare il sartù, facendoci una inverniciata di strutto con una uguale impellicciata di pan gratto, poscia ci porrai la mettà del riso già intiepidito, e con una mescola leggiermente lo adatterai facendoci un concavo nel mezzo, ove porrai il solito raguncino che più volte ti ho detto per i timpani: Al di sopra ci porrai l'altra mettà del riso, e con le mani l'accomoderai in modo che vada tutto bene incassato, facendoci al di sopra una ingranita di pan gratto con de' pezzettini di strutto. Gli darai la cottura come al timpano con la pasta, facendoci anche un buco in mezzo come a quello, versandoci uno o due coppini di sugo. |