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The Real Ketchups of Mozart and Haydn, as invented by the friends of their friends! |
The Mozartian Ketchups 1. The 20 Years Ketchup (1770s) 2. The Mushroom Ketchup A (1770s) 3. The Mushroom Ketchup B (1770s) 4. The English Ketchup (1770s) 5. Tomato Ketchup (1817) 6. Love-Apple Ketchup or Tomato Ketchup B (1818) |
Here a few original famous 18th century recipes for the MozartEra ketchups (1770s) until the first official 2 tomato ketchup recipes in history (1817-1818) written by Dr. W. Kitchiner. |
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DIFFICULTY: A ketchup for all season... ings! |
1. THE 20 YEARS KETCHUP (1770s) This recipe, famous in 1770s in all English speaking countries, was in reality much older. "The 20 years ketchup" is a special ketchup to be used on ships, during the very long journeys. INGREDIENTS: beer (4,54l.: strong and stale: the stronger and the staler, the better) anchovies (450gr.: washed from the pickle) shallots (450gr.: cut into pieces) mace (14gr.) cloves (14gr.) pepper (7gr.: whole) ginger (3 or 4 large roots) mushrooms (ca. 2kg. finely minced: use large boletus edulis type or large St. George mushrooms or Portobello mushrooms) METHOD: 1. Put all the ingredients into a big pan. Close the pan with its cover. 2. Let it simmer, until the liquid is reduced from 4,54l. to ca. 2,25l. 3. Strain the liquid through a fine sieve. When it is quite cold, bottle it... It will last 20 years. |
1. THE 20 YEARS KETCHUP. To make Catchup to keep twenty years. Take a gallon of strong stale beer, one pound of anchovies washed from the pickle, a pound of shalots, peeled, half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of cloves, a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper, three or four large races of ginger, two quarts of the large mushroom-flaps rubbed to pieces. Cover all this close, and let it simmer till it is half wasted, then strain it through a flannel-bag; let it stand till it is quite cold, then bottle it. You may carry it to the Indies. A spoonful of this to a pound of fresh butter melted, makes a fine fish-sauce ; or in the room of gravy-sauce. The stronger and staler the beer is, the better the catchup will be. |
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2. THE MUSHROOM KETCHUP A (1770s) INGREDIENTS: mushrooms (ca. 2kg. finely minced: use large boletus edulis type or large St. George mushrooms or Portobello mushrooms) salt (the quantity necessary) cloves (14gr.) mace (14gr.) allspice (14gr.) red wine (to every 1,13l. of mushrooms liquid add 0,28l. of red wine) ginger (1 or 2 roots finely minced) METHOD: 1. In a large earthen pan put a layer of minced mushrooms, then a layer of salt (to cover the mushrooms), then another layer of mushrooms and another layer of salt, etc. until you are done. Now add the spices, but not the roots of ginger. 2. For six days stir the mushrooms in the pan every day. Now put the pot into an oven and gently bake for 4 hours. Then strain the mushrooms liquid through a fine sieve and add 0,28l. of red wine to 1,13l. Adjust salt to taste and, in case, add salt and the minced roots of ginger. 3. Let it boil, until ca. 3/4 of the liquid remains in the pan. 4. Strain the ketchup through a fine sieve. When it is quite cold, bottle it. |
2. THE MUSHROOM KETCHUP A.
To make Catchup. Take the large flaps of mushrooms gathered dry, and bruise them; put some at the bottom of an earthen pan; strew some salt over, then mushrooms, then salt, till you have done. Put in half an ounce of cloves and mace, and the like of allspice. Let them stand six days, stir them up every day, then send them to the oven, and bake them gently for four hours. Take them out, and strain the liquor through a cloth, or fine sieve. To every gallon of liquor add a quart of red wine. If not salt enough, add a little more, a race or two of ginger cut small; boil it till one quart is wasted; strain it into a pan, and let it be cold. Pour it from the settlings; bottle it, and cork it tight. VARIANT (1774): [The mushrooms must be put with a good quantity of salt into a stewpan, let them boil 1 or 2 minutes (probably it's better more) and press them through a coarse sieve to get the juice. Then strain the juice through a fine sieve. Now add, to every 1,13l. of mushrooms juice, 28gr. of whole ginger, 14gr. of whole pepper. Let the liquid boil for ca. 15 minutes. In each 0,57l. bottles put 4 or 5 blades of mace and 6 cloves. To get a foreign catchup. Just add 0,57l. of mum beer to 0,57l. of this ketchup.] |
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3. THE MUSHROOM KETCHUP B (1770s) INGREDIENTS: mushrooms (ca. 2kg. finely minced: use large boletus edulis type or large St. George mushrooms or Portobello mushrooms) salt (the quantity necessary) beer (strong and stale: to every 1,13l. of mushrooms liquid add 1,13l. of beer) horse-radish (1 stick minced) bay leaves (5 or 6 leaves) onion (1 big stuck with 20/30 cloves) mace (7gr.) nutmegs beat (7gr.) black pepper (7gr.) white pepper (7gr.) allspice (7gr.) ginger (4 or 5 roots of ginger) METHOD: 1. In a large earthen pan put a layer of minced mushrooms, then a layer of salt (to cover the mushrooms), then another layer of mushrooms and another layer of salt, etc. until you are done. Now add the spices, but not the roots of ginger. 2. For six days stir the mushrooms in the pan every day. Now boil the mushrooms liquid and strain it through a fine sieve and add 1,13l. of strong stale beer to 1,13l of liquid. Adjust salt to taste and then add all the other ingredients. Put all the ingredients into a big pan. Close the pan with its cover. 3. Let it simmer, until only ca. 2/3 of the liquid remains in the pan. 4. Strain the ketchup through a fine sieve. When it is quite cold, bottle it. |
3. THE MUSHROOM KETCHUP B.
Another Way to make Catchup. Take the large flaps, and salt them as above; boil the liquor, strain it through a thick flannel bag; to a quart of that liquor put a quart of stale beer, a large stick of horse-radish cut in little slips, five or six bay-leaves, an onion stuck with twenty or thirty cloves, a quarter of an ounce of mace, a quarter of an ounce of nutmegs beat, a quarter of an ounce of black and white pepper, a quarter of an ounce of all spice, and four or five races of ginger. Cover it close, and let it simmer very softly till about one third is wasted; then strain it through a flannel bag: when it is cold bottle it in pint bottles, cork it close, and it will keep a great while. The other receipt you have in the chapter for the Sea. VARIANT (1774): [Work the mushrooms as in the previous VARIANT #2. Then you can use red wine instead of stale beer and add 1 head of garlic to each 1,13l. of liquid, before boiling it.] |
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4. THE ENGLISH KETCHUP (1770s) INGREDIENTS: mushrooms (ca. 2kg. finely minced: use large boletus edulis type or large St. George mushrooms or Portobello mushrooms) salt (the quantity necessary) beer (strong stale mummy, but not bitter: to every 1,13l. of mushrooms liquid add 0,57l. of beer) anchovies (110gr.) mace (7gr.) cloves (7gr.) pepper (14gr.) ginger (1 root) shallots (225gr.) METHOD: 1. Break the mushrooms into pieces and salt them very well. Put them in an earthen pan. For nine days stir the mushrooms in the pan once or twice a day. 2. Then put them in a metal jug and set it into water over a fire for 3 hours. Then strain it through a fine sieve. Add 0,57l. of beer to every 1,13l. of mushrooms liquid and all the other ingredients (quantities are for 1,13l.). Put all the ingredients into a big pan. Close the pan with its cover. 3. Let it simmer, until only ca. half of the liquid remains in the pan. 4. Strain the ketchup through a fine sieve. Adjust salt to taste. When it is quite cold, bottle it. |
4. THE ENGLISH KETCHUP.
To make English catchup. Take the largest flaps oſ mushrooms, wipe them dry, but don't peel them, break them to pieces, and salt them very well; let them stand so in an earthen pan for nine days, stirring them once or twice a day, then put them into a jug close stopp'd set into water over a fire ſor three hours; then strain it through a sieve, and to every quart of the juice put a pint of strong stale mummy beer, not bitter, a quarter of a pound of anchovies, a quarter of an ounce of mace, the same of cloves, half an ounce of pepper, a race of ginger, half a pound of shalots: then boil them altogether over a slow fire till half the liquor is wasted, keeping the pot close covered; then strain it through a flannel bag. If the anchovies don't make it salt enough, add a little salt. |
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5. TOMATO KETCHUP (1817) INGREDIENTS: tomatoes (ca. 4,54kg. mashed with 450gr. salt) [ingredients for each 1,13l. of tomato juice:] anchovies (110gr.) shallots (56gr.) black pepper (28gr. ground) mace (7gr.) allspice (7gr.) ginger (7gr.) nutmeg (14gr.) coriander seed (2gr.) cochineal (1gr.: since it was used to get a better red colour, the cochineal can be omitted, when you have good tomatoes) [to be added to each ketchup bottle:] brandy (1 wineglass) METHOD: 1. After mashing the tomatoes with salt, let them rest for 3 days, then press of the juice and pour it in a pan. Now add the following ingredientes to each 1,13l. of tomato juice: anchovies, shallots, black pepper. 2. Boil the juice for half an hour and strain the liquid through a fine sieve. Now pour the liquid again into a pan and add the following ingredients: mace, allspice, ginger, nutmeg, coriander seed, cochineal well pounded all together. Let the tomato juice simmer for 20 minutes. 3. When it is ready, strain again the juice through a fine sieve. When cold, add a wineglass of brandy to each bottle. 4. The tomato ketchup will remain good for 7 years. |
5. TOMATA CATSUP.
Gather a gallon of fine, red, and full ripe tomatas; mash them with one pound of salt; let them rest for three days, press off the juice, and to each quart add a quarter of a pound of anchovies, two ounces of shallots, and an ounce of ground black pepper; boil up together for half an hour, strain through a sieve, and put to it the following spices; a quarter of an ounce of mace, the same of allspice and ginger, half an ounce of nutmeg, a drachm of coriander seed, and half a drachm of cochineal; pound all together; let them simmer gently for twenty minutes, and strain through a bag: when cold, bottle it, adding to each bottle a wineglass of brandy. It will keep for seven years. |
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6. LOVE-APPLE KETCHUP or TOMATO KETCHUP B (1818) INGREDIENTS: tomatoes (ca. 4,54kg. baked) [ingredients for each 450gr. of tomato pulp:] malt-vinegar (0,71l.) bird pepper (14gr. in pods) mace (2gr.) ginger (2gr.) cloves (2gr.) allspice (2gr.) white pepper (28gr.) shallot (28gr. minced) garlic (1 clove minced) salt (adjust to taste) Lisbon wine (ca. 5,6cl.) METHOD: 1. Put the tomatoes washed, cleaned, dried and without stalks in a deep earthen pan. Close the pan with oven paper and bake the tomatoes slowly in a slack oven. 2. Gather the tomato pulp and strain it through a sieve. Then pour the juicy pulp into a large pan and add the following ingredients [to each 450gr. of tomato pulp]: malt-vinegar, bird pepper, mace, ginger, cloves, allspice, white pepper, shallot, garlic. Adjust salt to taste, but not too much, since the ketchup must remain sweeter, in the end. 3. Let it simmer for half an hour or until the shallots and the garlic are very soft. 4. Now strain the liquid through a fine sieve. When cold, add the Lisbon wine and bottle the ketchup. |
6. ANOTHER CATSUP OF THE TOMATA, OR LOVE-APPLE.
Take any quantity of Tomatas, and put them into a deep earthen pan, after having picked out their stalks. Tie a cover of brown paper over the pan and bake them slowly in a slack oven. Rub the pulp through the back of a hair sieve, and thus separate the seeds and skins. To every pound, by weight, of this juicy pulp, put a pint and a quarter of the best malt-vinegar, half an ounce of the little pods of Bird pepper (not the Capsicum); to be had at Butler's Herb-shop in Covent Garden, with a drachm each of mace, ginger, cloves, allspice; and one ounce each of white pepper, and peeled shalot. Simmer them for half an hour, or until the garlick and shallots are very soft; then pass the more liquid parts through the sieve a second time, to keep the solid dregs out. Bottle it. N.B. This catsup is greatly improved by the addition of an eighth of Lisbon wine, after the liquor is cold. |