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Hunt Music for the banquet!

Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (quartet K458 "The Hunt", K299d "La Chasse"), Leopold Mozart ("The Hunt" 1769 for keyboard, "Sinfonia da Caccia" with hunting horns and gunshots), Joseph Haydn (Quartet No. 1 "La Chasse" 1762-64, Symphony No. 73 "The Hunt" 1782), Ditters von Dittersdorf (Ovid Symphony No. 3), Paul Wranitzky (Symphony Op. 25 "The Hunt"), Beethoven and many other composers of 18th century composed music inspired by the Hunting Parties of the Aristocracy they all worked for as composers.

The importance of this genre, the Hunt Music (or Jagdmusik) (a musical genre, based on the popular hunting trope, which exists even though the symphony, the quartet or the sonata are not clearly identified by the nickname "The Hunt"), is given principally by the fact that it's Hunt characteristic is derived by the peculiar rhythms and tunes used by the brass instruments (mainly Horns) to give signals during the Huntig Party in the Forests.

Aristocracy loved those Hunt rhythms and tunes and wanted to hear them again also in their palaces but, this time, performed by an orchestra and, why not?, while eating pheasants, boars, deers (the prize of their Hunting Parties) at their tables, during a magnificent banquet!

Enjoy these original Mozartian recipes!

The English modern version of these recipes is an exclusive property of MozartCircle.
Duck & Mozart
Hunt Music & Cheese & Rissole! The Mozartian Game
1. Cheese of Grey Partridges (1790) &
2. Rissole of Grey Partridges (1790)
Here a few original famous 18th century Game recipes from the richest banquets of that Era (1790).
DIFFICULTY:
Starna or Starnotto? That is the Question!
1. CHEESE OF GREY PARTRIDGES (1790)

The grey partridge (starna) is good and magnificent, but in 18th century the young grey partridge (starnotto) was considered even better. The season to catch the young grey partridge (starnotto) is from the end of June to the end of October. The best season for the grey partridge (starna) is winter.

Cheese means that this dish must be cooked into an oven mould similar to those used for butter or cheese, in order to get a particular shape to show to your guests.


INGREDIENTS:

grey partridges (3; roasted and boned)
Alsatian white wine (1/2 glass)
veal stock
bread (soft part only must equal in quantity
     the meat of the grey partridges)
salt
pepper (crushed)
nutmeg (crushed)
salt
butter (200gr.)
egg yolks (7; fresh not cooked)
egg white (3; fresh not cooked)
bread (crumbles)
milk cream (flavoured with pepper & nutmeg)

METHOD:
1. Roast the grey partridges as needed with their correct flavours, especially some spiced lardo. Then accurately bone the grey partridges and finely mince the meat.

2. Put the bones of the grey partridges into a casserole with some good veal stock and 1/2 glass of Alsatian white wine. Let it simmer until you get just 2/3 of the original quantity. Then strain the broth through a fine sieve.

3. Now prepare a classical panata, by adding, to the aforementioned broth, the soft part of bread (its quantity must equal the quantity of meat). Let the broth and the bread cook, until the broth has been entirely absorbed by the bread.

4. When the panata is cold, put it into a bowl with the meat of the grey partridges and add salt, pepper and nutmeg. Adjust to taste.

5. Now in a bowl whip fresh butter and 7 egg yolks for 30 min. or more. To this add also the white of 3 eggs, you have previously whipped and prepared apart.

6. Now you can gently mix the panata and meat with the butter and eggs. Stir the cream of meat gently with a spoon.

7. Now prepare an oven mould with softened butter as usual and add the bread crumbles to the internal surface of the mould. You can pour the cream of meat into the mould and put the mould into mild oven.

8. When the cheese is ready, remove it from the mould and serve it on a silver plate with some white sauce, like hot milk cream with black pepper and nutmeg.

1. FORMAGGIO DI STARNE.
Il nome di Formaggio significa la forma della vivanda, e non la sua composizione. Levate dunque tutta la polpa a tre pernici cotte arrosto, e rifredde, tritatela, e pestatela nel mortajo. Fate bollire le carcasse schiacciate, con brodo buono colorito, e mezzo bicchiere di vino bianco consumato per metà. Allorché averà consumato un terzo, passatelo al setaccio; fate con questo brodo una panata stretta sopra il fuoco, e del volume della carne; quando sarà fredda pestatela insieme, condite con sale, pepe schiacciato, noce moscata, e passate al setaccio. Sbattete piu di mezz’ora in una terrina alquanto tiepida sette once di butirro fresco, con sette rossi d’uova, e tre bianchi, ma uno per volta. Indi mescolateci poco per volta la suddetta dose, versate in una cazzarola unta di butirro, e spolverizzata di mollica di pane, fate cuocere ad un forno temperato, e servite con sopra un poco di sugo chiaro.


2. RISSOLE OF GREY PARTRIDGES (1790) 

INGREDIENTS:
grey partridges (3 fat; roasted and boned)
Alsatian white wine (1/2 glass)
veal stock
herbs (rosemary, bay leaves, oregan, sage)
shallots (2; chopped)
egg yolks (2; fresh not cooked)
shortcrust pastry (made with butter or lard)
salt
pepper (crushed)
nutmeg
whipped egg (to close the half-moon Ravioli)
lard

For the shortcrust pastry for Rissole:
flour (450gr.)
butter (120gr.)
egg yolks (3; fresh not cooked)
egg white (2; fresh not cooked)
salt
water

METHOD:

1. Roast the grey partridges as needed with their correct flavours, especially some spiced lardo. Then accurately remove the breasts of the grey partridges and finely cut them into small dices.

2. Put the bones of the grey partridges into a casserole with some good veal stock, herbs, 2 shallots and 1/2 glass of Alsatian white wine. Let it simmer until you get just just 1/2 or less of the original quantity. Then strain the broth through a fine sieve.

3. Pour the broth into a bowl and add the small dices of grey partridge. Let it rest until it got cold.

4. When ready add 2 yolks, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Stir well with a spoon.

5. Now prepare a classical shortcrust pastry for Rissole by using the aforementioned ingredients and quantities. When the pastry is ready, create discs of pastry (diam between 3cm. to 5,5cm.). On each disc put some meat as previously prepared. Then close each disc, by moistening the edge of the disc with some whipped egg and by forming half-moon ravioli, and give some shape to the external edge with a speronella.

6. When all the half-moon ravioli (Rissole) are ready, fry them in lard (or oil) until golden. Pay attention not to break them.

7. When ready, serve them.

2. RISSOLE DI STARNE
Tagliate del petto di di starna, cotte arrosto, e rifredde, in minutissimi dadini. Fate bollire dolcemente le carcasse con un poco di Culì, mezzo bicchiere di vino bianco consumato per metà, un mazzetto d’erbe diverse, e due scalogne; quando averà consumato la metà, e che sarà abbastanza ristretto, passatelo al setaccio, poneteci la carne, e fate raffreddare, aggiungeteci quindi due rossi d’uova crudi, sale, pepe schiacciato, noce moscata; formatene le Rissole come alla Napolitana. Stendete una sfoglia di pasta brlsè fatta col butirro, o collo strutto poco importa, alla grossezza di un paolo formattaci sul bordo dei piccioli mucchietti colla composizione suddetta, indorateli all'intorno con uovo sbattuto, ripiegateci sopra la pasta, saldatela bene e tagliatela collo sperone, a guisa di piccioli Ravioli a mezza luna. Nel momento di servire fateli friggere nello strutto ben caldo, e serviteli subito di bel colore. In Napoli sono chiamate queste Rissole.