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Hunt Music for the banquet!

Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (quartet K458 "The Hunt", K299d "La Chasse"), Leopold Mozart ("The Hunt" 1769 for keyboard, "Sinfonia da Caccia" with hunting horns and gunshots), Joseph Haydn (Quartet No. 1 "La Chasse" 1762-64, Symphony No. 73 "The Hunt" 1782), Ditters von Dittersdorf (Ovid Symphony No. 3), Paul Wranitzky (Symphony Op. 25 "The Hunt"), Beethoven and many other composers of 18th century composed music inspired by the Hunting Parties of the Aristocracy they all worked for as composers.

The importance of this genre, the Hunt Music (or Jagdmusik) (a musical genre, based on the popular hunting trope, which exists even though the symphony, the quartet or the sonata are not clearly identified by the nickname "The Hunt"), is given principally by the fact that it's Hunt characteristic is derived by the peculiar rhythms and tunes used by the brass instruments (mainly Horns) to give signals during the Huntig Party in the Forests.

Aristocracy loved those Hunt rhythms and tunes and wanted to hear them again also in their palaces but, this time, performed by an orchestra and, why not?, while eating pheasants, boars, deers (the prize of their Hunting Parties) at their tables, during a magnificent banquet!

Enjoy these original Mozartian recipes!

The English modern version of these recipes is an exclusive property of MozartCircle.
Duck & Mozart
Hunt Music & Cockers & Woodcocks! The Mozartian Game
1. Stuffed Woodcocks à la Perigord (1790) &
2. Terrine of Woodcocks à l'Etuvè (1790)
Here a few original famous 18th century Game recipes from the richest banquets of that Era (1790).
DIFFICULTY:
A tricky woodcock
to catch
a darling cocker
you need!
1. STUFFED WOODCOCKS À LA PERIGORD (1790)

Remember that to properly catch a Woodcock firstly you need a hunting dog specialized in Woodcocks Hunting, like the Cocker Spaniel, a special breed of gun-dog selected for this type of work.

INGREDIENTS:

woodcocks (3; boned)
entrails (of woodcocks; select only what
  you want to cook)
truffles (3 black; cut into round slices)
butter (310gr. unsalted, in dices)
lardo (it must be a good spiced one,
  like the Lard d'Arnad)
chicken livers (2)
garlic (1 clove finely minced)
egg yolks (2; fresh not cooked)
onion (1 small, finely chopped)
shallot (1, minced)
parsley (crushed)
pepper (crushed)
nutmeg (crushed)
salt

Ragout of Truffles:
truffles (8 black; cut into round slices)
butter (200gr. unsalted, in dices)
ham (a big thick slice of)
olive oil (1 teaspoon)
garlic (1 clove, finely minced)
shallot (2, minced)
parsley (crushed)
pepper (crushed)
anchovy (1; minced and melted in the ragout)
Champagne or Alsatian white wine (1/2 glass)
light veal stock
lemon
salt
[you can cook this ragout also with a Red Wine, as a variant]

METHOD:
1. Accurately bone the woodcocks and keep the entrails apart.

2. Then put the woodcocks entrails, truffles, lardo, butter, parsley, chicken livers, small onion, shallot and garlic all into a blender. Add pepper, salt, nutmeg and 2 fresh egg yolks, then work with the blender, until you get a smooth cream of meat.

3. Open your boned wild birds, fill them with your stuffing. Sew them up.

4. Before roasting the stuffed birds in a hot oven, put them in a casserole with some butter and rapidly cook them until golden-brown. Then well wrap the woodcocks with slices of lardo. Put them again in the casserole and then roast them in a hot oven.

5. When the woodcocks are ready, remove the lardo slices and cover the woodcocks with the Ragout of Truffles.

6. You prepare the Ragout of Truffles in this way: cut the truffles into round slices, then put butter, ham, olive oil, shallot, parsley, garlic into a saucepan. Let them cook gently then add a mashed anchovy to the other ingredients and well stir. Now you can add the round slices of truffle to the other ingredients and add pepper and salt. Let them cook slowly and gently for 7-8 min. Then pour Champagne or Alsatian white wine and light veal stock on the truffles in the saucepan. Let them cook slowly and gently until the sauce is ready. Then remove the ham and add some lemon juice. Taste the sauce, check salt and pepper seasoning and adjust to taste. The Ragout of Truffles now is ready to be served onto the roasted stuffed woodcocks.

1. BECCACCIE ALLA PERIGORD.
Flambate, e spilluccate due, o tre Beccacie, fategli un taglio sulla schiena per sventrare dalla parte di dietro, tritate l'interiore senza i griscili, mescolateli con tre tartufi in fette, lardo rapato, un poco di butirro, petrosemolo, due fegatini di pollo, cipolletta, scalogna, una punta d’aglio, il tutto trito, sale, pepe schiacciato, due rossi d’uova crudi, noce moscata; riempiteci le Beccaccie, cucitele, trussatele colle zampe ripiegate sotto le coscie, ed il becco a traverso delle coscie; fatele rinvenire in una cazzarola sopra il fuoco, con un pezzo di butirro, e cuocere arrosto involtate di fette di lardo, e fogli di carta come le precedenti. Allorché saranno cotte, scucitele, levate il lardo, e servitele con sopra un Ragù di tartufi.

RAGÙ DI TARTUFI
Mondate, e tagliate dei tartufi in rotelline, o mandorle, o stelle , o come volete; passate in una cazzarola sopra il fuoco un pezzetto di butirro, una fetta di prosciutto, un pochino d’olio, scalogna, e petrosemolo trito, uno spicchio d'aglio; stemperateci poscia fuori del fuoco un’alice passata al setaccio; indi metteteci i tartufi, condite con poco sale, pepe schiacciato; fate cuocere dolcemente mezzo quarto d'ora, bagnate dopo con mezzo bicchiere di vino di Sciampagna, o altro vino bianco, consumato per metà, e Culì; fate finire di cuocere a picciolo fuoco, digrassate, levate il prosciutto, e mazzetto, e servite con un buon sugo di limone. Potete bagnare questo Ragù anche con vino rosso.
2. TERRINE OF WOODCOCKS À L'ETUVÈ (1790)

In this case Terrine means that the dish must be served in a Silver or in a good China Terrine with the meat well soacked in its own sauce.

You can prepare this dish also with Quails instead of Woodcocks. In this case, use 8 or 10 Quails. 


INGREDIENTS:
Woodcocks (3 fat; boned)
entrails (of woodcocks; select only what
  you want to cook)
lardo (it must be a good spiced one,
  like the Lard d'Arnad)
onions (20 small; to be cooked entire)
flour (1-2 spoons)
Alsatian white wine (ca. 1/2 glass)
light veal stock
ham (1 good slice)
rosemary, oregano, bay leaf (1/2), basil
pepper (crushed)
salt
bread (soft part, regular round pieces toasted and fried in butter)

METHOD:

1. Bone the woodcocks. Keep the entrails apart and wrap the woodcocks with slices of lardo.

2. Put the woodcocks in a casserole with some other lardo. Let them cook until golden-brown. Then remove them from the casserole and put 20 small entire onions in the casserole and let them cook in the lardo and in the sauce left by the woodcocks.

3. Then remove also the onions and keep them apart. Pour some flour into the casserole, cook and work it with Alsatian white wine and some stock until you get a smooth golden cream. Adjust salt and pepper to taste.

4. Now put the woodcocks in another casserole with ham, crushed rosemary, oregano, 1/2 bay leaf, some minced basil, salt and pepper. Pour the flour sauce onto the woodcocks. Now let the woodcocks cook slowly and gently. When they are half ready, add the 20 small onions and let cook slowly until the woodcocks are ready.

5. Remove the ham and the bay leaf and put the woodcocks into a Silver Terrine. Position the small onions onto them. Position also the round pieces of toasted and fried bread on the woodcocks in the Terrine.

6. Now finely mince the entrails of the woodcocks. Rapidly cook them in a saucepan with some lardo, then add the Ragout of entrails to the woodcocks flour sauce.

7. Now you can pour the woodcocks flour sauce onto the woodcoks in the Terrine.

8. Now you can serve and present the Silver Terrine to your guests.

2. BECCACCIE ALL'ETUVÈ
Lardate il petto per traverso a tre Beccaccie, di lardelli di lardo conditi e rifilati al paro della carne; indi fate l' Etuvé come quella di Quaglie. Colla sola differenza che tritarete l’interiora delle Beccacie senza i griscili, le passarete un momento sopra il fuoco in una picciola cazzarola con un poco di lardo rapato, e poi le passarete per setaccio nella Salsa dell’Etuvè.

QUAGLIE ALL'ETUVÈ.
Terrina. Sventrate , incosciate , e flambate otto, o dieci Quaglie, passatele in una cazzarola sopra il fuoco con un poco di lardo rapato, quando saranno alquanto rosolate levatele, e ponete nella cazzarola circa venti cipollette, fatele rosolare egualmente; indi levate anche queste, ponete nella cazzarola un buon pizzico di farina, fatela divenire color d’oro sopra un fuoco moderato, movendo sempre, e bagnate con una foglietta di vino bianco consumato un terzo, e un poco di Sugo; fate bollire dolcemente, e digrassate bene più volte. Ponete le Quaglie in una cazzarola con una fetta di prosciutto, un mazzetto d'erbe diverse con mezza foglia di alloro, e un poco di basilico, poco sale, pepe schiacciato, passateci dentro la Salsa col setaccio; fate cuocere a picciolo fuoco; a mezza cottura aggiungeteci le cipollette rosolate; fate finire di cuocere; indi digrassate bene, levate il prosciutto, e mazzetto, aggiustate le Quaglie nella Terrina, con sopra le cipollette, e qualche crostino di mollica di pane tondo come le cipollette, e fritto nel butirro, versateci sopra la Salsa, e servite subito.