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Hunt Music & Fat Fat Partridges! |
The Mozartian Game 1. To Roast Partridges (1784), 2. Fried Patridges (1702) & 3. Cullis of Patridges (1702) |
Here a few original famous 18th century Game recipes from very old England (1702) and from old England (1784). |
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DIFFICULTY: A Partridge high enough not is not good! |
1. TO ROAST PARTRIDGES (1784) INGREDIENTS: partridges (2) To roast: lardo (it must be a good spiced one, like the Lard d'Arnad) or, instead, thin slices of bacon pepper (crushed) nutmeg (crushed) lemon juice Partridges livers (minced) onion (1, small and minced) parsley (crushed) shallot (1, minced) garlic (1 clove minced per partridge) lardo (see above, minced with the livers) salt flour butter (melted) Bread-sauce (version 1784): crumbs of bread (1 or 2 handfuls) milk (ca. 0.60l) onion (1, small, whole and not chopped) pepper (white and whole) salt butter (ca. 150gr.) Poverroy-sauce (version 1784): shallots (4, finely chopped) gravy (ca. 0.14l) vinegar (1 spoonful) pepper (crushed) salt METHOD: 1. Prepare the usual game roast, by covering the correctly "high" partridges with thin slices of lardo (or of bacon), pepper, nutmeg, lemon juice and by stuffing the 2 partridges with this mixture: minced partridges livers, minced lardo, minced garlic, minced onion, minced shallot, crushed parsley, salt and crushed pepper. 2. Roast the partridges, but not too much. Baste them with melted butter, drudge with flour by adding a little salt on, and froth them nicely. 3. Prepare the two sauces to be served in separate boats. 4. Bread-sauce: put 1 or 2 handfuls of crumbs of bread into a pan, then add 0.60l of milk, 1 small whole onion, white pepper, salt and butter. Boil it, then remove the whole onion and beat the sauce well with a spoon. Serve in a boat. 5. Poverroy-sauce: put 4 finely chopped shallots into a pan, then add 0.14l of gravy, 1 spoonful of vinegar, pepper and salt. Boil the sauce one minute. Serve in a boat. 6. The roasted partridges must be served with their gravy in the dish and the Bread-sauce and the Poverroy-sauce served in separate boats. |
1. TO ROAST PARTRIDGES Let them be nicely roasted, but not too much; baste them gently with a liitle butter, and drudge with flour, sprinkle a little salt on, and froth them nicely up; have good gravy in the dish, with bread-sauce in a boat, made thus: take about a handful or two of crumbs of bread, put in a pint of milk or more, a small whole onion, a little whole white pepper, a little salt, and a bit of butter, boil it all well up; then take the onion out, and beat it well with a spoon; take poverroy-sauce in a boat, made thus: chop four shalots fine, a gill of good gravy, and a spoonful of vinegar, a little pepper and salt; boil them up one minute, then put it in a boat. |
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2. FRIED PARTRIDGES (1702) A recipe translated into English from French cook-books in 1702 and still in use after 1750s. INGREDIENTS: patridges (2, both cut into 2 pieces) Marinade: lemon juice verjuice (or vinegar) pepper (crushed) salt cloves chibbols (little onions) bay leaf (1 or 2) Vinegar Sauce: vinegar (white, 125 ml) garlic (1 clove, finely minced) pepper (white, finely ground) salt (heavy pinch) Batter to fry the partridges: flour (white, fine) wine (white, an Alsatian one) yolks (2 or 3) salt lard (to be used to fry the patridges) METHOD: 1. Cut the partridges into 2 pieces. To get a dish that can be eaten more easily, you can previously bone the partridges. 2. Put them in a Marinade for, at least, 3 hours to let them well steept. Prepare the marinade in this way: lemon juice, verjuice (or vinegar), pepper, salt, cloves, chibbols and 1 or 2 bay leaves. 3. Then prepare the batter with white fine flour, white wine, 2 or 3 yolks and salt. 4. Remove the pieces of the partridges from the marinade and dip them into the batter. Then fry the partridges in lard. 5. Serve the fried partridges in form of a pyramid on a plate and add fried parsley and slices of lemon. In particular for partridges, instead of lemon and parsley, serve with the garlic-vinegar sauce, made just by whisking together all the ingredients in a bowl. |
2. MARINADE OF PARTRIDGES Let the Partridges be cut into two pieces and steept in a Marinade, as the preceding Particulars: They must also be fry'd after the same manner, and serv'd up to Table with Garlick-vinegar and white Pepper. [Let the Partridges be] marinated, with Lemmon-juice and Verjuice, or with vinegar, Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Chibbols and a Bay-leaf or two. Leave them in this Marinade for the space of three Hours, and having made a sort of clear Paste or Batter, with Flower, white Wine and the Yolks of Eggs, dip your [Patridges] into it: Then fry them in Lard, and let them be serv'd up in form of a Pyramid, with fry’d Parsly and Slices of Lemmon. |
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3. CULLIS OF PARTRIDGES (1702) A recipe translated into English from French cook-books in 1702 and still in use after 1750s. The cullis of partridges must be used in these ways: 1. rather liquid, it must be poured warm onto and into the meat pies when serving them; 2. more consistent and solid, spread on bread toasted slices; 3. more consistent and solid, spread on pieces of salted puff pastry or, as a cream, into vol-au-vents. INGREDIENTS: partridges (2, already roasted as previously demonstrated) truffles ("green" means "fresh", 1 handful; use black ones) mushrooms (St. George or Portobello, 1 handful) lard (with a bit of butter) fine herbs (add garlic minced, oregano, rosemary, parsley minced) chibbol (little onion) basil marjoram veal gravy (2 spoonfuls) lemon juice salt pepper METHOD: 1. Take 2 roasted partridges with their dressing of lardo or bacon and put them into a blender. Work them until you get a rather smooth cream of meat. 2. Put the truffles and the mushrooms (better if cut into slices) into a stew pan with the fine herbs, chibbol, basil and marjoram. Add some lard with a bit of butter to the ingredients in the stew pan. Sauté the truffles and mushrooms (trifolare) with all the herbs. 3. When the truffles and mushrooms are ready, add the cream of partridges. Pour the veal-gravy into the stew pan and let the truffles, mushrooms and the cream of partridges cook gently. Check salt and pepper and adjust to taste. 4. When ready, strain the cream of meat, truffles and mushrooms in the stew pan through a sieve. Add some lemon juice. 5. Serve as suggested. |
3. A PARTRIDGE-CULLIS Take two roasted Partridges, and pound them well in a Mortar, with the Bards or thin Slices of Bacon with which they were dress'd: then taking as many green Truffles as you can get up between your Fingers, with the like quantity of Mushrooms, fry them in Lard with fine Herbs, Chibbol, sweet Basil and Marjoram: afterwards mix your pounded Meat together in the same Stew-pan, with two good Spoonfuls of Veal-gravy; let them soak over a gentle Fire, and strain them thro' the Sieve with Lemmon-juice. |