THE MOZARTIAN GOURMET: OCTOBER 2016

Hunt Music for the banquet!

Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (quartet K458 "The Hunt", K299d "La Chasse"), Leopold Mozart ("The Hunt" 1769 for keyboard, "Sinfonia da Caccia" with hunting horns and gunshots), Joseph Haydn (Quartet No. 1 "La Chasse" 1762-64, Symphony No. 73 "The Hunt" 1782), Ditters von Dittersdorf (Ovid Symphony No. 3), Paul Wranitzky (Symphony Op. 25 "The Hunt"), Beethoven and many other composers of 18th century composed music inspired by the Hunting Parties of the Aristocracy they all worked for as composers.

The importance of this genre, the Hunt Music (or Jagdmusik) (a musical genre, based on the popular hunting trope, which exists even though the symphony, the quartet or the sonata are not clearly identified by the nickname "The Hunt"), is given principally by the fact that it's Hunt characteristic is derived by the peculiar rhythms and tunes used by the brass instruments (mainly Horns) to give signals during the Huntig Party in the Forests.

Aristocracy loved those Hunt rhythms and tunes and wanted to hear them again also in their palaces but, this time, performed by an orchestra and, why not?, while eating pheasants, boars, deers (the prize of their Hunting Parties) at their tables, during a magnificent banquet!

Enjoy these original Mozartian recipes!

The English modern version of these recipes is an exclusive property of MozartCircle.

	1790: Hunt Music & Christmas Boar!	The Mozartian Game (1790) 1. Sweet and Sour Boar & 2. Christmas Boar	Here a few original famous 18th century Game recipes used across Europe with a then popular sweet and sour sauce to be used with boar and pork. One was a typical dish for Christmas Lunch. (1790)
DIFFICULTY: No Game, No Dish!		Christmas Boar 2. is a close variant of the following recipe. 1. SWEET AND SOUR BOAR (1790) INGREDIENTS (BOAR): boar (6 cutlets) salt pepper (crushed) nutmeg flour butter (150gr.) 1 onion (minced) cloves (2 crushed) Champagne or Alsatian white wine (1 glass) light veal stock INGREDIENTS (SAUCE): sugar (250gr.) vinegar (white) biscuit (mostacciolo Type A or Type B crushed to powder) stock from the boar capers (washed from salt) INGREDIENTS (BISCUITS MOSTACCIOLI) TYPE A (1820): sugar (1.4kg.) flour (1.1kg.) cinnamon (56gr.: powder) cloves (28gr.: powder) nutmeg (28gr.: powder) water (warm-hot) INGREDIENTS (BISCUITS MOSTACCIOLI) TYPE B (1820): sugar (1.4kg.) flour (1.4kg.) cinnamon (28gr.: powder) cloves (14gr.: powder) pepper black (7gr.: powder) water (warm-hot) citron candied (225gr: minced) almonds sweet roasted (225gr: crushed) water (warm-hot) METHOD (BOAR): 1. Put the cutlets of boar in a dish with flour. Cover the cutlets with flour and add salt, pepper and nutmeg. Remove the superfluous flour from the cutlets. 2. Put the butter with the onion and the cloves in a pan. 3. Melt the butter, then add the cutlets and let them cook on both sides until a beautiful golden colour. 4. Add Champagne or Alsatian white wine and then a few spoons of a good light veal stock. 5. Let it simmer for a few minutes, until the sauce is beautiful and sufficiently thick. Then remove from the fire, to prepare the sweet and sour sauce. 6. In another pan put the sugar. Melt it until the sugar shows a light golden colour, then add a few spoons of white vinegar (the quantity depends on your taste). 7. Add the biscuit mostacciolo Type A or Type B to the sugar and vinegar (the quantity depends on your taste). 8. With a spoon pour the stock from the boar cutlets into the sugar and vinegar sauce. Check the sugar and vinegar sauce and adjust to taste, by adding another spoon of sugar or another spoon of vinegar. 9. Now put the cutlets in the sweet and sour sauce you have prepared. Let it simmer for another ca. 15 min. 10. Then serve the cutlets with its sweet and sour sauce and a few capers (entire or minced). [According to the original 18th century use, at this point, one can decide to add, to this dish, also some minced prunes, St. George mushrooms or Portobello mushrooms, raisins minced or candied fruit minced.] METHOD (BISCUITS MOSTACCIOLI A): 1. Put the sugar, the flour and the powder of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg in a bowl. 2. Add warm-hot water and stir the dough with a wooden spoon until the dough is homogeneous. 3. Cover the bowl and keep it in a room temperature place for 2 days. 4. Then cover an oven casserole with flour. Put the biscuit dough in the casserole by giving them a shape (rhomb is the traditional one; length ca. 5cm). 5. Place the casserole in the oven until the biscuits are golden-brown. 6. Then if you want to use them as dessert, you can dress the biscuits with a classical white sugar and cinnamon icing or with chocolate. After you have dressed the biscuits this way, put them in oven again until they are well dried. METHOD (BISCUITS MOSTACCIOLI B): 1. Put the sugar, the flour, the powder of cinnamon, cloves and pepper and the citron and the almonds minced in a bowl. 2. Add warm-hot water and stir the dough with a wooden spoon until the dough is homogeneous. 3. Cover the bowl and keep it in a room temperature place for 1 day. 4. Then cover an oven casserole with flour. Put the biscuit dough in the casserole by giving them a shape (rhomb is the traditional one; length ca. 5cm). 5. Place the casserole in the oven until the biscuits are golden-brown. 6. Then if you want to use them as dessert, you can dress the biscuits with chocolate. After you have dressed the biscuits this way, put them in oven again until they are well dried.	1. COTOLETTE DI CIGNALE AGRO-DOLCE. Tagliate propriamente delle cotelette di Cignale, conditele sopra un piatto con sale, pepe schiacciato, e noce moscata; infarinatele e spazzatele dalla farina. Squagliate un pezzo di butirro in una cazzarola giusta per la quantità delle cotelette, ponetele dentro con una cipolletta con due garofani, copritele con un foglio di carta; fatele cuocere con fuoco sotto e sopra, rivoltandole di tempo in tempo, fategli prendere un bel color d'oro, bagnatele con un bicchiere di vino di Sciampagna, o altro vino bianco consumato per metà, fatelo consumare del tutto; aggiungeteci un poco di brodo bianco; fatele bollire dolcemente, che restino umide e glassate. Mettete del zucchero in un’altra cazzarola, fate la Salsa come quella, del Lombetto di maiale Agro-dolce, e finitele esattamente nello stesso modo. [...] Allora prendete un’altra cazzarola giusta la grandezza del lombetto con più di mezza libbra di zucchero; ponete sopra il fuoco, quando principia a squagliarsi, e prendere un poco di color d'oro a bagnate con aceto a proporzione, fate bollire, aggiungeteci un pezzo di mostacciuolo in polvere, digrassate il fondo del lombetto, passatelo al setaccio, mettetelo nella Salsa, fatela consumare, assaggiate se domina più l'aceto, o il zucchero, onde potete correggere coll'uno o l’altro, metteteci dentro il lombetto; fate ancora bollire dolcemente un quarto d’ora, che la Salsa sia sufficientemente legata, e servite con un pizzico di capperi interi. Alcuni vi pongono prugne, altri prugnoli, passerina, candito in dadini; ma tutto dipende dal gusto. 2. MOSTACCIOLETTI SEMPLICI. [TYPE A] Prendansi libre tre di zucchero grasso, libre due e mezza di farina di grano, once due di cannella, una di garofani, ed una noce moscata, tutto in polvere, e mescolata ogni cosa si unirà con acqua calda formandone un sodo pastume, che si lascerà fermentare, involto in un panno, per due giorni. Dopo si dimenerà, ed in pezzi ridotto se ne formeranno i mostaccioletti di quella figura che si vogliono, ma nella grossezza però d'un mezzo dito. Si faranno cuocere sopra foglie di rame con farina sotto, ad un giusto grado di forno, e cotti se le darà il naspro di cannella, o di cioccolata ed in stufa si faranno asciugare. 3. ALTRI MOSTACCIOLETTI. [TYPE B] Con acqua calda s'impastino tre libre di zucchero, con libre tre di farina, oncia una di cannella, mezza di garofani, una quarta di pepe, mezza libra di cedro candito trito, e mezza di mandorle dolci abbrustolate, e trite; tutto bene impastato si lascerà per ventiquattr'ore. Dopo se ne formeranno i mostaccioletti, si faranno cuocere, e si naspreranno con cioccolatta.
		2. CHRISTMAS BOAR (1839) It's a famous variant of the previous recipe. Even though the first published recipe appeared in ca. 1839, this recipe was an old traditional Christmas dish. INGREDIENTS [12 people]: boar (2kg.) lard red wine (l. 0,75: Merlot type better] biscuits mostaccioli (450gr. crushed to powder) cloves (2 crushed) cinnamon (12gr.) citron candied (450gr. minced) sugar (120gr.) salt pepper vinegar (red) METHOD: 1. Cut the boar into small pieces, as for a stew. Put the lard in a pan. Melt the lard and add the pieces of boar until light golden. 2. Then pour the red wine using a spoon. Add a spoon of wine and let it cook a bit. Then add another spoon of wine and let it cook, until you have poured l. 0,75. Let it simmer. 3. Then add the biscuits mostaccioli (crushed to powder), the cloevs, the cinnamon, citron candied minced, the sugar, the salt, the pepper and the red vinegar. 4. At this point, check the sugar and vinegar sauce and adjust to taste, by adding salt or pepper or another spoon of sugar or another spoon of vinegar. 5. When the sweet and sour sauce is good and thick, you can serve your Christmas boar.	4. PUORCO SARVATECO NSEVIERO. Piglia doje rotola de puorco sarvateco o puramente lo cignale, lo farraje a pezzulle, e lo zoffrie co no poco de nzogna, sbruffannoce spisso spisso no poco a la vota na carrafa de vino russo, ma sempe vollente, e accossì lofarraje cocere, po nge miette la concia, zoè, na libbra de mustacciuolo pesato, doje grana de carofano, e cannella fina, na libbra de cetronata ntretata, no quarto de zuccaro, poco sale, pepe, e acito, farraje vollere, e ncorporà, po pruove, l'assagge, mme ntienne, pe bedè si nge vo cchiù zuccaro, o cchiù acito, e fatto denzo denzo lo siervarraje.